Restaurant review: Good things come in small portions

Romantic, atmospheric and indulgent — for date nights and first dates, look no further than Taipei’s JUJU Spanish Gastrobar

• Written by: Hollie Younger / Contributing reporter

Dim red lighting and cozy corners, the soft glow of the street lamps outside; Modern yet sexy music surrounds quiet conversations. JUJU invites us to cozy Spanish venues to clink wine glasses and share delicious meals. This place is designed for sultry romantic evenings.

But be warned: The tapas use atomic bomb garlic, making it a bold choice for date night.

Entering from a rainy night in Songshan District (松山), we are hit with that intoxicating garlic and warmth of a charming bistro that hits the sweet spot between crowd and buzz. I wanted to impress and I won the jackpot.

Photo: Hollie Younger

Native Spanish chef Pablo Lorenzo, who hails from the volcanic island paradise of Tenerife, roams the dining area in the open kitchen, offering suggestions, mixing drinks and preparing delicious small plates.

Entering its seventh year, JUJU is a family affair of passion and excellence. Apart from fresh produce, beer and wine, spices and aromas, even delicatessen products and cheeses are imported from Spain. Lorenzo’s cousin, a professional jamon slicer, regularly flies into Taipei with his certified Iberico ham, supplying JUJU’s charcuterie boards with premium cuts cured for 36 or 48 months and carved directly from the leg into silky, salty slices. A plate of Iberico ham (NT$900) and a pitcher of fresh sangria (NT$590) make the perfect introduction to this delightful and intimate culinary experience.

Many sangrias are actually an amateur combination of red wine and wet fruit. But JUJU’s sharing jars are a one-way ticket to a sunny patio in Seville, a vacation in a glass. Pablo also imports gin from the Balearic Islands, using a traditional and simple Menorca-made gin for JUJU’s signature gin and tonic (NT$320); elevated in-house with rosemary and berries for a light, summery spritz.

Photo: Hollie Younger

Lorenzo’s menu combines Spanish classics with fresh seafood and South American flavors, paying homage to his home on the Canary Island off the coast of Africa; Its menu includes Venezuelan arepas, which resemble tacos with a starchy, corn dough coating.

The more continental tapas list ranges from classic croquettes to more flamboyant fried octopus; Lorenzo recommends sharing three to four per couple.

The signature here is the garlic shrimp (NT$550), which Lorenzo begged us to try. Served in a separate cast-iron skillet, plump and pink shrimps are dipped in rich garlic oil spiked with fresh red pepper. It makes a delicious mouthful when loaded onto crusty toast.

Photo: Hollie Younger

Our next order from the sea is the seafood paella (NT$430), conveniently served tapas-sized in miniature pans. The mussels are huge, the oysters are juicy, and we’re delighted to see more use of fresh shrimp.

Last tapas; Beef Tongue Pintxos (NT$360). Traditional taverns in the Basque region of northern Spain serve bite-sized appetizers on tiny crusty toast: pintxo. JUJU’s recipe calls for plenty of tender, buttery beef tongue on a bed of soft and tangy cream cheese. It’s incredibly rich but strikes just the right balance; Good things come in small portions.

Think tapas and desserts don’t usually come to mind, but one hugely popular dish is Torrijas (NT$280). Bread soaked in cinnamon milk and toasted, it’s the churro’s softer, fluffier cousin, topped with vanilla ice cream. A little something sweet reveals a buffet of authentic, bold Spanish cuisine; flavors that are full-bodied but never too heavy.

Photo: Hollie Younger

As we readjust from sunny Spain to rainy Taipei, we finish the evening watching the world go by from the covered terrace, savoring the end of a fruity gin and tonic.

Photo: Hollie Younger